Taking old tint off looks easy until you try it. The film usually comes away and leaves its glue stuck to the glass, and the back window has defroster lines that a scraper can cut. This guide covers when tint needs to come off, the methods that work at home, how to get the glue off safely, and what we do when you bring it to us.
When tint needs to come off
- It has turned purple. That’s dyed film breaking down in sunlight. It can’t be fixed. Read why tint turns purple for the details.
- It’s bubbling. Bubbles that show up long after installation mean the adhesive is failing. Pressing them flat doesn’t last, and they spread.
- The edges are peeling. Once an edge lifts, dirt and moisture get underneath and the film gets worse.
- It looks hazy. Film that looks milky or foggy, especially at night, means the adhesive is breaking down. It can make it harder to see.
- It’s on the front windows of an Alberta vehicle. Alberta doesn’t allow any film on the windshield or the front side windows of a vehicle driven on public roads. If you’ve moved here or bought a vehicle with front tint, that film has to come off. Our Alberta tint law guide explains the rules.
Why peeling it off doesn’t work well
Window film has two layers, the polyester film and the adhesive under it. When you pull old film off, the film often separates from the adhesive and leaves the glue on the glass. Getting that glue off without scratching the glass or cutting the defroster lines is where most home attempts go wrong.
Three ways to remove tint at home
1. Steam
This is the best method for most people. Use a handheld fabric steamer and run it over the film for several minutes. The heat and moisture soften the adhesive. Lift a corner and pull the film back slowly at a low angle, steaming just ahead of where you’re pulling. You’ll probably still need adhesive remover for what’s left.
2. Heat gun or hair dryer
Heat one corner until you can lift the edge, then peel slowly while you keep heating ahead of the peel. Be careful with a heat gun. Too much heat in one spot can crack the glass or damage the interior trim. A hair dryer is slower but safer.
3. Soapy water and sun
Spray the film with soapy water, cover it with newspaper or a plastic bag, and leave the vehicle in direct sun for about an hour. The moisture and warmth soften the adhesive. It works, but it’s slow and it needs a warm, sunny day.
Getting the glue off
After the film is off, you’ll likely have adhesive left on the glass. You can use:
- A commercial adhesive remover.
- Rubbing alcohol with a razor scraper on the side windows only.
- Soapy water with 0000-grade steel wool, on plain glass only. Never use steel wool on coated or tinted glass.
Protect the defroster lines
The heating lines on the back window sit on the inside surface of the glass. A razor or steel wool can cut them, and a cut line stops heating that strip of the window. Don’t use a razor or steel wool on the back glass. Use steam and adhesive remover there, and work gently.
Having it removed professionally
We remove old tint at both shops, as a job on its own or before we install new film. We use heat, steam and proper adhesive remover so the film and the glue come off without damaging the glass or the defroster. Then we clean the glass so it’s ready for new film.
The price depends on how many windows have film and how badly it has broken down. Old film that has baked onto the glass for years takes longer to remove. Send us your vehicle and a description or photo of the tint and we’ll give you a price.
Choosing the replacement film
If your old film turned purple or bubbled, it was almost certainly cheap dyed film. Don’t put the same kind back on. A carbon or ceramic film doesn’t fade the way dyed film does.
- 3M Colour Stable is a carbon film and starts at $299.
- 3M Ceramic IR keeps out a lot more heat and starts at $349.
- 3M Crystalline keeps out the most heat while staying light and starts at $449.
For a removal and re-tint price, send us a quote request.