We’re a tint shop, so we think professional installation is worth paying for. But if you want to tint your own windows, here’s how to do it properly. This guide covers the tools, the steps, the mistakes beginners make and what Alberta law allows.
What you need
Materials and tools
- Window film. Pre-cut film made for your vehicle model saves you the hardest part of the job.
- Slip solution in a spray bottle. A few drops of baby shampoo in water works.
- A squeegee or a hard card.
- A heat gun. A hair dryer can work on small curves.
- A sharp utility knife with fresh blades.
- A razor scraper for cleaning the glass.
- Lint-free microfibre cloths.
- Masking tape.
Where to work
Work in a closed garage, out of the wind and direct sun. Dust is the biggest enemy of a clean install. Any speck trapped under the film shows up as a bump. Clean the space first, close the door and let the dust settle before you start.
Step by step
- Clean the glass. Spray the inside of the window with slip solution. Scrape it with the razor held at a low angle to take off any residue, sticker glue or mineral deposits. Wipe it with a lint-free cloth. Then do it all again. The glass has to be perfectly clean, because anything left on it will show through the film. Don’t use the razor on the rear defroster lines.
- Cut the film if it isn’t pre-cut. Spray the outside of the window and lay the film on it with the liner facing you. Cut around the window, leaving about a quarter inch extra on every side. Use the edge of the window gasket as your guide.
- Wet the inside of the glass. Roll the window down about half an inch. Spray the inside of the glass generously. The solution lets you slide the film into place.
- Put the film on. Peel the clear liner off the film. A piece of tape on one corner helps separate the layers. Spray the adhesive side straight away so it doesn’t dry. Lay the film on the wet glass and slide it into position, with the top edge tucked just under the gasket.
- Squeegee. Push the water and air out with firm, overlapping strokes from the centre outward, working from the top down. On curved glass, warm the film gently with the heat gun so it lies flat.
- Trim and finish. Roll the window up and trim any extra film along the edges. Squeegee again to push out the last of the water.
The film will look a little hazy for a few days while it dries. That’s normal. Leave the windows up during that time.
Common mistakes
- Glass that isn’t clean enough. This is the most common cause of bumps and flaws. If you think the glass is clean, clean it once more.
- Dust in the air. Even a garage with the door open lets in enough dust to ruin a piece.
- Not enough slip solution. Beginners tend to under-spray. You can always squeegee extra water out, but you can’t fix a spot where the adhesive grabbed the glass too early.
- Rushing the squeegee. Go slowly with firm, overlapping passes. Fast passes leave water pockets.
- Starting with the back glass. The back glass is the hardest piece because it’s curved and has defroster lines. Start with a small side window.
- Using cheap film. Bargain film is thinner, harder to handle and fades sooner. If you’re putting in the time, use a reputable brand. Our page on why tint turns purple explains what goes wrong with cheap film.
Alberta law before you start
Doing it yourself doesn’t change the rules. Alberta’s Vehicle Equipment Regulation, section 70, bans any film on the windshield and on the side windows beside and in front of the driver. That includes clear film and a tint strip across the top of the windshield. Alberta has no AS-1 line or eyebrow exception. On a vehicle driven on public roads, only the rear side windows and the back glass can be tinted, and those can be any darkness as long as you have outside mirrors on both sides.
That means the windows most people tint themselves, the rear ones, are fine at any shade. Read our Alberta tint law guide for the medical exemption and the other details.
Choosing the film
Film darkness is measured as VLT, the percentage of visible light that gets through. A 5% film is very dark, often called limo tint, and a 50% film lets half the light through. The type of film matters more than the darkness for heat. Dyed film is the cheapest but fades. Carbon film doesn’t fade. Ceramic film keeps out the most heat for the money. Our guide to tint types explains each one.
Doing it yourself or having it done
| Doing it yourself | Having us do it | |
|---|---|---|
| Film | Whatever you can buy retail | 3M Colour Stable, Ceramic IR or Crystalline |
| Cost for all windows | The cost of the film and tools, plus your time | $599 to $999 depending on the film |
| Result | Some flaws are likely on a first attempt | Clean glass, fitted film |
| Tools and workspace | You buy the tools and clear a dust-free space | Done in our shop |
After the film is on
Keep the windows rolled up for a few days. Don’t clean the inside of the glass for about a week. Clean with ammonia-free cleaner and microfibre cloths after that. Our tint care guide has the full routine.
If you’d rather leave it to us, see our prices.